1 garlic clove, halved crosswise
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons kirsch or sherry (optional)
1/2 lb Emmental cheese, coarsely grated (2 cups)
1/2 lb Gruyère, coarsely grated (2 cups)

Rub inside of a 4-quart heavy pot with cut sides of garlic, then discard garlic. Add wine to pot and bring just to a simmer over moderate heat.

Stir together cornstarch and kirsch (if using; otherwise, use water or wine) in a cup.

Gradually add cheese to pot and cook, stirring constantly in a zigzag pattern (not a circular motion) to prevent cheese from balling up, until cheese is just melted and creamy (do not let boil). Stir cornstarch mixture again and stir into fondue. Bring fondue to a simmer and cook, stirring, until thickened, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to fondue pot set over a flame.

What to dip
Cubes of French bread

Chunks of grilled steak or chicken
Cubes of apple and pear
Roasted potatoes
Julienned raw red bell pepper
Blanched broccoli florets

Chunks of grilled steak and/or chicken

What to drink
•Dry white wine such as dry Riesling or Sancerre
•German lager or Saison-style ale
•Farmhouse cider
•Fino Sherry

Makes 6 servings.